How I Completely Missed The Purpose Of This Art Piece
Along our trek back from Aldea Zama, I wanted to stop by an art installation that I had read about, the Pyramid of Positive thinking. It was right along our path back to the resort.
The structure starts with a path that winds through the trees, ducking beneath red arches that represent a snake that leads to a small opening and a large pyramid. 12 meters wide and 12 meters tall, the Pyramid of Positive thinking was constructed by Xavier de Maria y Campos to commemorate the year 2012, which coincided with the end of the Mayan calendar cycle – an event that signals the transition into a new Baktun.
Upon approaching the installation, I ignored the detailed signage that was posted to instruct visitors about the purpose of the art piece and how they can contribute to it. Instead, I walked straight for a set of very steep stairs on the side of the pyramid and climbed to the top. I peered inside of the pyramid and was immediately disgusted; it was full of plastic bottles. I had thought people turned what could have been a really nice work of art in the middle of a nice neighborhood into an oversized trash bin.
I was wrong.
When I got home, I did some more research on the pyramid and found that the bottles were fully intentional. Xavier had encouraged visitors to write down one positive thought on a piece of paper, insert it into a PET bottle (Polyethylene terephthalate – a 100% recyclable plastic material), and layered within soil containing regional plant seeds. Over time, the structure will decompose and leave a pyramid of green that has been imbued with the positive energy of the visitor’s thoughts.
Reflecting back, I wish I had taken the time to read the signage and learn about the art piece before passing swift judgement and leaving the area with a poor taste that it didn’t deserve. Nearly a decade later, I do think the artist may have leaned towards a more environmentally-safe method of building the structure (a biodegradable substance rather than plastic) if he had created it today, but I am encouraged by the mission behind the art piece and look forward to slowing down the next time I see a piece of art that has been designed to spread positivity.
In previous posts, I mentioned how our resort was on a never-ending, dusty road and we were forced to walk for what seemed like an eternity to get anywhere. That’s what we thought until one day we noticed a few cars were turning right off of the road onto a bumpy, sandy side street. A quick GPS search back at the resort and we found out there are a few shops down that road so we set off one morning to do some exploring and eating.
The neighborhood we ended up finding down this side street was called Aldea Zama and it was dramatically closer to our resort than either of the other destinations we had been going to – the Tulum beachfront and La Veleta.
The first thing we noticed was how quiet it was. The neighborhood had a very posh look to it and it seemed to be recovering from the pandemic, as every other window had a promotional sign trying to get you to buy an available condo and there was plenty of construction projects going on.
We reached our first stop, Matcha Mama, a cute little smoothie cafe that made incredible use of the tiniest space. Seriously, they crammed an entire shop into a booth the size of a standard closet. We had a broad choice of seating options to enjoy our Mango Tango smoothie bowl, but we hunkered under the balcony for a little shade. This thing was delicious and one bowl easily satiated both of our bellies.
Our next stop was the number one reason I wanted to stop by this neighborhood; we were headed for Mamazul, a 4-star hotel with an incredible mezcaleria on the ground floor. I checked the screenshot I had of Google Maps and we set off down one street, made a turn here, walked down another until I said “hmm…”
Now I am one of those people that will walk forever around a place, half-getting to our destination, half-just checking out the new environment. Rachel, whom I was with, is not like that. She took my brief pause of uncertainty to mean that we were lost in the jungle with no way out, a feeling only further exacerbated by the burning heat of the mid-day sun.
The place was just one block over…
The first thing you notice is the huge, open-concept layout of the bar with a super high ceiling, a front entrance that was open-air, and a stretching shelf of mezcals behind the bar that needed a rolling ladder (like what you associate with libraries) to reach the top shelves.
We downed some fresh juices that sounded better than they ended up being, but where they disappointed, the mezcal tastings did not.
We sipped down the smoky, smooth elixir, letting the feeling linger at the back of our throats and debated over which of the endless bottles had the coolest label design. Between the drinks, the decor, and the overall atmosphere, I will 100% be returning to Mamazul when I get back to Tulum. I really wanted to purchase a bottle of mezcal right after to bring home, but I never check a bag on my flights so I had to wait for the duty-free shop which had a much larger selection that I remembered. Luckily, I had started packing “empty space” before trips to allow myself to grab a bottle of alcohol souvenir before heading home.
As we headed back, I wanted to stop by an art installation that I had read about, The Pyramid of Positive Thinking. First and foremost, I need to voice out an apology for this piece, because I did not understand the project at all when I had viewed it in person. My thoughts have since changed.
We made our trek back, still shocked by how close this cool, little neighborhood was to us this whole time.
The sun was hot, beating straight down on us. The trees that flanked the dusty road did nothing to shade us from the heat. We were walking from our AirBnb from the previous night to our resort that we would stay at for the remainder of the trip. As we passed a semi-busy looking resort called Mystiq, we paused for a second to make sure we were heading the correct direction. Yep – shouldn’t be much farther. Our resort had only opened earlier this year so a lot of online maps weren’t quite updated enough to show an exact location.
Finally, after what seemed like a while, we came upon a very large, wooden sign that read KAN Tulum. Beyond the sign, a dirt path stretched into the jungle. I didn’t even mind the extra walk, because at least it was in the shade. We passed some signs on the trees that definitely fed to the younger-generation lifestyle. “#GreenVibesOnly.”
Once we approached the security gate, we were let in and WOW! I couldn’t believe this lush, green oasis was just a stone’s throw away from the hot, dusty road on which we were just walking. We were guided to the reception desk where Edith welcomed us and gave us a tour of the property. It was absolutely beautiful. The paths intertwine through large, vibrant plant life, passing a hanging tear drop chair, a hammock, then to the pool which was fairly well centered and gave us a good visual of the property. A large building on the far side of the pool was where they offered massages and a really neat, bamboo-covered bridge led you to their breakfast/drink bar and the resort eventually plans on opening a vegetarian restaurant once they’ve expanded.
We were allowed to roam the property until our room was ready (check-out from our AirBNB was 4 hours prior to our check-in at KAN Tulum) but right when we went to get our swimsuits from our bags, they told us it was ready. Sweet!
We were shown to our room, which I guarantee had the best view on the property (seriously, we could see everything while still maintaining a little privacy on our terrace.)
According to their website, there are five room floorplans (which I think only two currently exist, the rest are part of the expansion. I could be wrong.) and it was very well thought out. The room we stayed in wraps around from the bedroom/kitchenette to the bathroom with a large, beautiful, two-sided mirror acting as the barrier between the king-size bed and a big, Instagram-worthy tub.
I’d like to take the next couple sections to talk about 3 amazing highlights from our stay:
Now this isn’t at all for the obvious reason. We did get one drink from the bar here – a really tasty passionfruit, mezcal cocktail – but it was $15 and we had other options. Mystiq, from up the road, had a mini-mart on its property where you can find bottles of wine for reasonable prices.
What the bar offered that really made our trip fantastic was its breakfast and coffee. Every morning, Saoul and his team presented a buffet style breakfast of vegetarian options from oats to fruit to beans to eggs and the styles varied each day. There were pitchers of fruit-infused water that I’ve been super exited to replicate at home in the new goblets I got in Charlotte. The meal was so good and we felt very healthy enjoying it.
The staff was also always available to present us with coffee all the time. There was always someone around to brew together an Americano or Almond Latte. We really appreciated sitting at the pool and being handed a “cold coffee” which was really set off by coconut flakes.
Despite seeing other people staying at the resort, we essentially had the pool to ourselves whenever we wanted. The water was comfortably warm like a bath and the sun fluttered in and out from behind the shade of the trees giving you an alternating warm shine and a cool escape from the heat. It was the perfect recipe for a nice tan.
One of the absolute best things to do on the Yucatán peninsula is to visit and swim in cenotes, underground water wells that are created by the collapse of limestone caves. KAN Tulum just happens to have one on the property, a few strides from the pool and overlooked by the bar.
A pump-fed waterfall creates a really nice look to the cenote, but once it turns off, you can see all the way through the calm, cool water to the bottom. We jumped in, splashed around, and floated above the water surrounded by cavern walls.
I cannot wait to come back to Tulum and explore the ruins and area around here and I will undoubtably stay at KAN Tulum again.
Our recent trip to Tulum was largely for rest and relaxation purposes, especially after the obstacles that jumped in our way. Still, there were a few occasions where we wanted to leave the sanctity of our little jungle oasis to go exploring. One day, we rented a pair of bicycles from our resort – these turned out to be more in line with mountain bikes than the typical beach cruiser we saw everyone else riding around.
It was a scorcher this day, settling around 90° F (32° C) by 11am, and we set off right when the sun was peaking just past noon. The road outside of our resort was an endless line of dust and sand-colored pavement that seemed to extend towards the horizon. No worries, though, according to Google Maps and the front receptionist, this should be a quick 13 minute ride to the beach and another 15 minutes to the ruins with a nice sea breeze for the second half.
The stretch of road down to the beach had trees on either side, but since the sun was directly above, they didn’t provide any shade to utilize. We made sure to sunscreen up and brought a bottle along with us to reapply when needed. This stretch ended up taking twice as long as anticipated. It drug on and on and on with cars passing by, some giving us plenty of space, others narrowly avoiding us like we just weren’t there.
We finally arrived at the beachfront road (with limited visual access to the beach beyond an extended wall of hotels, restaurants, and clubs) and took a water break before continuing along. We did pass a stretch of beach where we noticed that the sargassum infestation that plagued our Cancun trip two years prior was still abundant. There were piles and piles of the smelly seaweed sitting on the beach and brown pelicans were using it as a resting nest. I didn’t think to take any photo or video of them, but we got to catch a few of these birds diving into the water in search of lunch.
The stretch along the beach was full of trendy looking shops and restaurants, but we were on a mission. A side path for walkers and bikes began after the shops that gave us a little breathing room from the constant traffic as well as a little shade. The rest of the ride was racking up the minutes, though just a brief bit after we were supposed to arrive, we passed by what looked like a gate to the ruins. That turned out to not be the case. That was just the halfway point. We continued past beach club after beach club for a while until we finally approached the gate to the ruins.
A trio of blue-collared shirt clad individuals stopped us to tell us the ruins were closed. At this point, we had been riding for about an hour in the hot sun and just wanted to pause on the side of the road to finish our water, reapply sunscreen, and comprehend the news we were just given. The officials started to offer us alternative excursions that we could purchase at their stand which we declined. I became skeptical that this was just a sales tactic to catch unknowing foreigners before they could get to the ruins.
I saw an American couple come from the other side of the gate who were stopped by the same trio for the sales pitch (there was another entrance on the other side that led to downtown Tulum) so I decided to wait and talk to them when they passed by.
I asked them what was on the other side and they said they thought the ‘closed ruin’ news was a scam too so they continued all the way to the actual entrance to the ruins where they were turned away, confirming the closure. We later were told by a different employee at our resort that there was a confirmed COVID case at the ruins and they were closed for sanitation.
After a brief sigh, our ride back was slow but steady. We passed some big iguanas and a coati that seemed to be overly comfortable with two local guys, acting like their pet. We stopped at a pharmacy on the way back to pick up some water and a little rest. I like to think I’m in good shape and I usually have no issue with endurance, but this ride kicked my butt.
Upon arriving back at our resort, lounging by the pool was the only to-do for the rest of the day.
So you’ve just arrived in beautiful, hot Mexico. You’ve ditched the sweatshirt you were wearing on the cool flight down and your sunglasses are on. Your next step is getting to your hotel, hostel, AirBnb, or wherever you’re staying in Tulum. Here are four options to fit your travel style and budget:
The quickest way to go is via a taxi. Don’t worry about availability here; you will be met by no fewer than two hundred drivers that will continuously ask you where you’re going and if you already have a ride to your destination.
Be warned, these aren’t your typical yellow taxi. These are essentially private drivers that charge an astronomical fee (sometimes over 3000 pesos (~$175USD) to get you to where you’re going.
This is probably my recommendation if you’re not traveling on a shoestring budget. We used a shared shuttle service to transfer from our hotel (included pickup) to the airport. The journey took about 1 hour, 45 minutes and cost $83USD + tip. We only picked up one other pair of guys on our trip. The downside is the A/C was broken and the windows couldn’t open, so our drive in the 90 F degree (32 C) heat wasn’t the most pleasant. You can book either directly through the Cancun Airport website or a private company with a quick Google search.
3. ADO Bus
The budget option. We took the bus upon arrival down to Tulum due to our flight arriving about an hour before the next bus left. It was $18/person, but what we didn’t realize was that it made a stop in Playa del Carmen on the way down. This turned into a 3.5 hour drive that got us to Tulum pretty late. The ride itself wasn’t bad, with toilets on the bus, A/C, and comfortable seating. It drops you off in the middle of Tulum Centro and La Veleta. Our AirBnb for the first night was a nearly 2km walk over bumpy roads on a dimly lit street. We underestimated the bus drive time and the fact that it got dark so early in Mexico.
4. Rental Car
If you can, check out renting a car. This provides the maximum freedom that you may want to explore the Yucatán peninsula. Prices can start as low as $10/day, but do acknowledge that there is some form of mandatory coverage that will most likely be added to the bill. I’ve read dozens and dozens of reviews and forums and I still can’t find a consensus of if using a credit card with travel perks can cover at least part of the mandatory coverage. If you’ve had experience renting a car in Mexico, please leave a comment below.
The roads around the airport and major cities aren’t bad at all and very drivable. Having a rental car will let you explore ruins and cenotes at your own leisure without having to rack up expensive tours or transportations.
Why Would I Go To Tulum?
Cancun is the top destination when flying into the nearby airport, attracting over 6 million foreign visitors in 2019 alone. It has a very chain-restaurant, chain-resort feel to it. If you’re looking to stay at an all-inclusive resort, by all means, enjoy your trip. However, Tulum has become a millennial-friendly spot, seeing an influx in digital nomads in recent years.
I was a big fan of its commitment to eco-tourism and health (seriously, you’ll find a raw food or açaí bowl every fourteenth step) that the city provides. You feel a nice connection between supporting locals and learning their culture while still having access to the conveniences that make travel easier. I will definitely stay in Tulum on my next visit to the region and make sure to share more stories with you.
My last flight was in March of 2020, coming back to Maryland from a trip to New Orleans right before the world started to close down and I’ve been itching to get back in the skies ever since.
That opportunity came when we booked our trip to one of the only countries in the world that wasn’t requiring some sort of quarantine, Costa Rica. A few days before our flight, we had to make a quick change of destination to Mexico.
When the date arrived to walk down that glorious, skinny aisle, I was met with quite a few surprises:
It was much busier than I expected it to be. The long term parking lot was packed full and the bus from there to the terminal had no empty seats left and a young family packed themselves in at the last stop. Everyone was very good about wearing masks, however.
Getting through TSA and airport security on the other end was the easiest experience I’ve ever been through. The process was quick and the security officers were all very pleasant.
Our first flight was pretty empty. Flying on a Boeing-737, the first class and main cabin extra seats were full, then it was empty until you got to our seats in the back dozen or so rows. If anyone has a good read about the weight distribution of “not full flights”, please link it in the comments below.
The next three flights (first leg was BWI to CLT, then CLT to CUN on an A321, and the reverse) were full flights. My seating arraignment was middle, middle, aisle, middle, which I didn’t mind one bit. Now, while most of my 6′ frame is built of lanky torso, I still felt like there was plenty of leg room available. Our flight from Cancun to Charlotte was the only one with a little bit of discomfort when I sat next to a woman who I think was named Ms. Elbows.
The flights were all super quick, with the longest being 2 hours 30 minutes and I was able to nod off for a good chunk of the airtime.
Overall, I felt safe and American Airlines definitely had a commitment to ensuring all mask protocols were being met. I can’t wait to fly again.
COVID-19 is frustrating. We just had to cancel our trip to Costa Rica that was supposed to happen in less than 48 hours. The country was one of the only places in the world that was allowing U.S. citizens in without the need for vaccination, negative testing, or quarantine periods (the latter-most being the biggest selling point.)
Additionally, our plans were based around excursions that enabled us to maintain social-distance and were all outside. Unfortunately, news from the end of April highlighted a huge spike in positive COVID tests, leading to a shutdown in the capital region that started this past Monday. While we were not going to be within 3 hours of the capital (our flight landed in the smaller, northern airport of Liberia) we inevitably decided to cancel our trip.
There are currently 403 ICU cases in the country, which takes up all available beds. Locals are restricted from driving after certain curfew times. There are a shortage of tests being done. Due to all of this, we did not wish to put any unnecessary strain on the medical system here. We feel awful about cancelling our reservations at some absolutely beautiful homes during a time when the country’s economy can really use the help, but we look forward to staying at them once the situation is a bit safer.
The Airbnb reservations were simple enough to cancel, with the one downside is we missed a cancellation policy by a few hours which meant we had to pay for the first night and a service fee (~$140). Our travel insurance and car rentals cancelled easily with a couple emails. Now here is where this story changes…
Since we purchased our American Airlines flights before April 1, we had no change fees and we could change them to another flight or receive flight credit to be used within a year.
After some intense searching, price-checking, communicating back and forth, breaking for a delicious barramundi lunch, and asking each other “are we sure?” a million times, we successfully switched our trip to Tulum, Mexico!
I feel really weird putting that into a small paragraph that is only one sentence long because of how intense this was due to the time constraint we were facing.
Mexico doesn’t require a negative test or quarantine period and the positive test statistics are on par with Maryland, where we live.
Due to the change in flights, we bumped our arrival time to the mid-afternoon and actually received a $200+ flight credit that we’ll use later this year. That’s essentially a pre-paid trip somewhere!
In an effort to maintain distance from the more crowded hotel zone and to splurge on ourselves a little bit to get out of the funk of losing our initial trip, we booked a stay with what looks like an incredible eco-resort. I’m excited now and I hope we made the right choice.
In 2019, I hit 5 years at my current job, which unlocked an extra week vacation I could use each year. With this new time and the wanderlust from having just returned from Iceland, I implored Rachel to book another flight with me.
I told her that we could do somewhere inexpensive and easy, like Cancún . It would be for a little R&R.
We booked our stay for the weekend of Cinco De Mayo (which, I have come to learn, is not widely celebrated outside of the Puebla region of Mexico) and started preparing.
Through poor financial decisions (taking a trip less than two months after another trip, finishing some tattoos, eating out a lot, etc.) I was basically out of money by the time we flew into Cancún International Airport.
When you enter into the country, you’ll be given a tourist card. Hang onto this, as you’ll need it to exit. Rachel didn’t keep hers, which led to standing in line to get a new one, discovering there was a hefty fee to get it, realizing they only took cash, then finding out the ATMs right beside it had astronomical fees. In short, it’s expensive and timely to replace.
We took a shuttle to our AirBNB which was in the Hotel Zone of the city. The place was okay; it had a nice view from the balcony that overlooked the beach. We found the pool was only a 2’ deep wading pool and there was a wall that blocked our view.
Thankfully, our friends Courtney and Tom came down as well. We were texting to meet up and realized they booked a room in the building right beside ours. They had a much nicer pool setup and we were able to get guest wristbands into their area (albeit with some hassle.)
The first stop was food. We strolled down the street in search of a place to eat and found Cerveceria Chapultepec, where everything on the menu was 21 pesos (~$1.) We each ordered a variety of empanadas, cervezas, and we had our first round of mezcal. I immediately became enamored with the spirit and have since put visiting an agave farm towards the top of my future travels.
Cancún sits on beautiful, blue water that you’d love to swim in. However, there was an invasion of sargassum, a brown, stinky seaweed that had ventured up from South America. Today, officials in the Riviera Maya region declare the sargassum season over. The local governments were better equipped with collection vessels and the amount of seaweed that arrived was much lower than expected.
Since we were unable to swim in the gulf (this stuff was everywhere), we explored some other options of entertainment. I pitched Chichen Itza as an option; I had visited the UNESCO World Heritage site a few years prior, but the consensus was to stay a little closer to maximize time. To segue, I also want to dive the Musa dive site when I go back.
We found a local couple that did kayak tours and we signed up. They took us through the Nichupté Lagoon and we traversed our way through a mangrove forest. The guides were experts at pointing out all kinds of animal life, like crabs, starfish, birds, and fish. I highly recommend this if you get the chance.
The food on this trip was great. The Surfin Burrito, targeted towards Americans, was excellent for breakfast. The rest of the trip was comprised of trying various Mexican dishes that were all delicious. Side note: this is a good destination for vegetarian travelers.
I look forward to going back to Mexico in the near future. If I do venture to the Riviera Maya region again, it may likely be a different town like Tulum, but I will do so with the intentions of having the best time.
The Sazerac embodies the spirit of New Orleans. From the first sight to the last sip, its an ever-evolving experience that emulates a walk through the city.
The sight of the low washline in the glass bears resemblance to the city sitting below sea level, which is still evident on the buildings and plots of land today. The smell of sweet citrus followed by strong anise and fennel builds a complex nose that portrays the distinct districts of the city. The spice from the rye and bitters lingers in the throat like a hot Cajun meal.
New Orleans is the birthplace of many classic cocktails and, rightfully so, deserves a trip to indulge in a very good drink.
My ideal specs: 2oz rye whiskey, 1tsp sugar, 4 dashes Peychaud’s bitters, 1 dash Angostura bitters, stirred in ice and poured up into an old fashioned glass, lemon peel expressed on top and discarded.
Daquiri – Havana, Cuba
Let me be clear. This is not one of the frozen slushees you get at an American beach town bar. There’s a place for them, but that place isn’t here.
The classic daiquiri is essentially a rum sour; a delicate experiment as you seek to balance spirit, sour, and sweet to your taste palate. You envision Hemmingway sitting at the end of the bar, tossing back one after another, the cool drink cutting through the heat and humidity.
I haven’t yet been to Cuba, but it’s on my shortlist. Your first reaction to pictures and videos are of how it’s a land stuck in time – the classic cars, the beautiful buildings, and the warm sunrises. Then your thoughts change. Why are they stuck in time? Do the people really convey the opinion of the country or are they suffering at the hands of a political showdown they have no influence in? To travel to Cuba requires a bit of extra work. You must sign papers and retain proof that you’re only staying and spending money at establishments owned by individuals and not the state. Are our embargo’s helping anybody or just hurting the people?
My ideal specs: 2oz rum, 3/4oz fresh lime juice, 1/2oz simple syrup, shaken over ice, strained into a chilled Nick & Nora glass.
Paloma – Mexico
Another drink without a definitive origin, the Paloma has enough popularity and local ingredients that I’m confident in saying the Jalisco region of Mexico is the birthplace or very close to it, at the least. Grapefruit production didn’t take off in Mexico until the 1960s so earlier versions may have been tequila and any available soda.
This is beyond refreshing and exactly what I would want to sip on while lounging on a Mexican beach. A lot of people mix grapefruit juice with soda water and a pinch of salt, but I think a grapefruit-flavored soda works well and provides a little extra sweetness to balance it out. I touched on wanting to visit the agave farms in a previous post, and I can’t wait to do so with a cold, delicious La Paloma in hand.
My ideal specs: 2oz mezcal, juice of 1/2 lime, poured into a highball glass, topped with ice and grapefruit soda.